Potential use of native fruits waste from Argentina as nonconventional sources of cosmetic ingredients

ORQUEDA, MARÍA EUGENIA; ZAMPINI, IRIS CATIANA; BRAVO, KARENT; OSORIO, EDISON; ISLA, MARÍA INÉS

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Wiley

Año: 2022

1473-2130

Background: Collagenase, hyaluronidase, elastase, and tyrosinase enzymes are overexpressed and overactive in the skin aging process and hydrolyze the components ofthe dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin; these enzymes produce the clinicalframework of aging, which includes skin dryness, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, andinelasticity.Aims: The aim of this study was to explore the potential use of waste from twoArgentine native fruits, namely Ziziphus mistol, and red and orange varieties of Solanumbetaceum, as sources of bioactive compounds.Methods: Phenolic enriched extracts (PEE) from waste of Z. mistol and S. betaceumwere obtained, and their total contents of phenolics and flavonoids were evaluated.The bioactive properties of the extracts were analyzed by measuring their antioxidant capacity and the inhibitory activity on collagenase, hyaluronidase, elastase, andtyrosinase enzymes.Results: The increased ability to inhibit the collagenase was demonstrated by the PEEof Z. mistol seeds and peel, while the enzyme elastase was mostly inhibited by extractsof S. betaceum skin. Z. mistol seed extract was the most active to inhibit hyaluronidase,reaching 96% inhibition at a concentration of 100 μg GAE/mL. The most active extracts to inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme were obtained from the peel of two varietiesof chilto fruits, orange and red, and the mistol seed.Conclusions: The results obtained suggest that Z. mistol and S. betaceum waste may beconsidered as a source of bioactive phenolics. Here, Argentine native fruits waste ispresented as a most promising alternative in cosmetic products, with future uses suchas hydrogels, creams, or lotions