Identification of Centella asiatica Extract in a Cosmetic Cream

LOPEZ PAULA; COGOI LAURA; CUFRE INGRID; TARCAYA VERÓNICA; CATALANO VANINA; BROUSSALIS ADRIANA

Quito

Congreso; International Phytocosmetic Congress; 2014

Centella cosmetic creams or emulsions contain - among other actives - extracts of Centella asiatica. These extracts contain triterpene saponins (asiaticoside, madecassoside) and sapogenins (asiatic and madecassic acids) in smaller quantities. The health authority requires performance of an assay that allows the identification of claimed active ingredients in cosmetic formulations, without quantifying components. When the active ingredient is a plant extract, this identification is performed by chromatographic analysis to define a profile. This profile should be detected in the cosmetic product. In this work we determined by TLC and HPLC the presence of the Centella asiatica extract in a cosmetic cream. Solution of Centella asiatica extract: Prepare a solution of Centella asiatica extract raw material in MeOH of 1 mg/ml using an ultrasonic bath (45°C, 10 minutes). Sample solution: Prepare a solution of cosmetic cream in MeOH of 100 mg/ml employing an ultrasonic bath (45°C, 10 minutes). Asiaticoside reference solution: Prepare a solution of 1 mg / ml in methanol of asiaticoside. Excipients solution: Prepared in the same manner as the sample solution. Chromatographic systems: TLC: Stationary phase: Silicagel Merck HF 254; 0.2 mm thick; mobile phase: ethyl acetate, formic acid, acetic acid, water (100:11:11:27); detection: Anisaldehyde sulfuric reagent (heated at 100°C for 5-10); development distance: 9.0 cm HPLC: C8 (15 cm x 4.6 mm; 5 μ); Solvent A phosphoric acid (3°), solvent B: ACN in a linear gradient; 1 ml/min; detection 205 nm; 20 ul. TLC and HPLC: The chromatographic profile of Centella extract raw material in the cosmetic cream is observed. Chromatographic methods used are appropriated for the quality control of a cream contained Centella asiatica extract.