Ascorbic Acid in Skin Health

RAVETTI, SOLEDAD; CLEMENTE, CAMILA MARA; BRIGNONE, SOFÍA GISELLA; HERGERT, LISANDRO YAMIL; ALLEMANDI, DANIEL ALBERTO; PALMA, SANTIAGO DANIEL

Cosmetics

MDPI

Año: 2019 vol. 6 p. 1 - 8

Ascorbicacid(vitaminC)isawater-solublevitaminandarecognizedantioxidantdrugthat is used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent the changes associated with photoaging, as well as for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Ascorbic acid has neutralizing properties of free radicals, being able to interact with superoxide, hydroxyl and free oxygen ions, preventing the inflammatory processes, carcinogens, and other processes that accelerate photoaging in the skin. Current research focuses on the search for stable compounds of ascorbic acid and new alternatives for administration inthedermis. Unlikeplantsandmostanimals,humansdonothavetheabilitytosynthesizeourown ascorbic acid due to the deficiency of the enzyme L-gulono-gamma-lactone oxidase, which catalyzes the passage terminal in the ascorbic acid biosynthesis. To deal with this situation, humans obtain this vitamin from the diet and/or vitamin supplements, thus preventing the development of diseases and achieving general well-being. Ascorbic acid is involved in important metabolic functions and is vital forthegrowthandmaintenanceofhealthybones,teeth,gums,ligaments,andbloodvessels. Ascorbic acidisaveryunstablevitaminandiseasilyoxidizedinaqueoussolutionsandcosmeticformulations. Ascorbicacidisextensivelyusedasaningredientinanti-agingcosmeticproducts,assodiumascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate. This review discusses and describes the potential roles for ascorbic acid in skin health and their clinical applications (antioxidative, photoprotective, anti-aging, and anti-pigmentary effects)oftopicalascorbicacidontheskinandmainmechanismsofaction. Consideringtheinstability and difficulty in administering ascorbic acid, we also discuss the importance of several factors involved in the formulation and stabilization of their topical preparations in this review.